Monthly Archives: August 2014

The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum

St. Michaels, a twenty minute drive from Tilghman Island, is home to the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum.  The museum documents the areas natural, cultural, and economic history.

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The museum’s active boat shop offers classes and . . .

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supports the restoration of vintage working vessels such as the Skipjack Rosie Parks.

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The Hooper Strait Lighthouse, built in 1879, guided boats passing through the Hooper Strait shoals enroute from the Chesapeake Bay across Tangier Sound to Deals Island and the Nanticoke and Wicomico Rivers. A “screwpile” lighthouse, it is built onl iron pilings  tipped with a screw that could be turned into the muddy bottom.

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A screw used to secure the lighthouse to the bottom.

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The Museum’s largest permanent exhibit, At Play on the Bay, explores the Chesapeake Bay’s twentieth-century history shift over the last 100 years from a place of work to a place where people now come to play. – See more at:

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The museum boasts a fine collection of scale models of vessels used on the Chesapeake.  The museum’s volunteer Model Guild helps provide exhibit models and building kits for the Museum Store.

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Decoys are prominently displayed in the building devoted to Bay waterfowl.

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Eulalie manning the big gun.

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The Museum’s Skipjack viewed from the water.

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The Hooper Strait lighthouse viewed from the water.

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During the War of 1812, St. Michaels’ boat yards built a flotilla of shallow draft vessels to attack British barges ferry soldiers from war ships to shore.  This diorama depicts the boatyard in action.  The diorama is part of a larger exhibit focused on the War of 1812.

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The museum thoughtfully documents aspects of African American history on the Eastern Shore.  Frederick Douglass (author and leader of abolitionist movement) and Harriet Tubman (active on the Underground Railroad and Union Spy during the Civil War) both have roots in the area.  The museum is home to the Mitchell House, which belonged to Douglass’ sister, Eliza Bailey Mitchell, and her husband, Peter.

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“Get back Part 3”

From 1985-1990 we “belonged” to the Washington, D.C. area, including Maryland’s Eastern Shore.  These were pivotal years in our lives, during which Eric worked for the State of Alaska, and Eulalie held her first captain’s post at the Echo Hill Outdoor School.  In addition,  Eric went to night school for his law degree and Eulalie helped clean up the Exxon Valdez oil spill while working as an environmental consultant.  Oh yeah, if that all wasn’t enough, Beth and Jean were both born (1990 and 1987).  Given the area’s importance to us, we allowed two weeks to explore and reconnect.  We enjoyed a hike to the Great Falls and an extended stay on the Eastern Shore.  Visits included Eulalie’s sisters Kate and Mary Helen and their families, Eric’s friends from college and elementary school and Eulalie’s best friend from high school and the Echo Hill Outdoor School’s directors.

11Bethesda3. MikeHill housesit-Evey

Evey, Mike and Kathy Hill’s dog, hosted us for our first week in D.C., while Mike and Kathy were in New Hampshire.  After a year of living on Elizabeth Jean and out of the back of our car, we enjoyed having a home complete with pooch for a week.  Eric and Mike met at Williams College where they worked with other students to create the Williams Orientation to Outdoor Living for Freshman.  Another of Eric’s Williams classmate, Nick Spiliotes and his wife, Lauri and their family welcomed Eric for Sunday pastries.

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Rapids at Great Falls Park, which we visited with Eric’s boyhood chum, Steve Hall and his wife Marggy.  We also shared a delightful dinner with Eulalie’s high school friend and sailing buddy, Sara Cartmell and her husband Bill Tennis.  Time with these early friends dialed back the decades as no fountain of youth could, reminding us of how far we’ve traveled and how much we have remained the same.

17DC9. Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens

Eulalie and her sister Kate enjoyed a morning visit to the Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens, established by a Civil War veteran, outside Washington D.C.


Eulalie’s sister Mary Helen and her husband Richard Bogan rolled out the welcome deck at their Tilghman Island home on Maryland’s Eastern shore.  As noted in our August 24 post, Richard mapped out a wonderful car tour to keep us busy during our stay.  Mary Helen introduced Eric to this game to keep him out of trouble.  If you look closely, you can see that Eric has released a ring on a string to find a hook on the post.  Eric, if not the ring, was more than firmly hooked by this past time.


The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum also captivated us for two days of visits.  A subsequent post will provide museum highlights.


In the spring of 1986, Eulalie worked as an educator at Echo Hill Outdoor School, founded by Andrew and Betsy McGowan to introduce school students to the Eastern Shore’s natural and cultural history.


The Elsworth, a vintage Chesapeake Bay skip jack is the pride of Echo Hill’s fleet of vintage work boats.  Andrew fished the Elsworth for nine years and shared a third of the profits with the Outdoor School to help pay for the vessel.  Twenty eight years ago, Eulalie captained another Echo Hill vessel, the schooner Strombus for a school summer program.

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The top of the Echo Hill Alpine Tower challenge course.

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Eulalie, at the bottom of the tower, provides perspective on its size.

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These wise words grace Andrew and Betsy’s log cabin at the edge of the Echo Hill swamp.

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Rat’s immortal words, in our guest room at Richard and Mary Helen’s, still puts it best.  We are feeling Elizabeth Jean’s tug west to resume our “messing about.”

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Before we departed, Mary Helen and Richard showed us the art and science of eating blue crab.  As far as messing about goes, such feasting places a close second to boating in our books.

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Beautiful swimmers: A Haiku

Beautiful swimmers.

Side-walking Bay bellwether.

Chesapeake Blue Crabs.


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“From Bellevue to Bellevue” (attribution Richard Bogan)

While visiting Eulalie’s sister Mary Helen, her husband Richard Bogan mapped out an itinerary for a day of touring Maryland’s Eastern Shore.  The tour included a ferry crossing from Bellevue to Oxford.  Richard, a Seattle native, observed that we had come from Bellevue (a Seattle suburb) to Maryland’s Bellevue.  These Bellevue bookends bracket many thousands of miles of our road trip and provide bi-coastal vantage points from which to view our efforts to reconnect with our State-side lives this summer.  Within the week we will begin moving west again, albeit slowly, for our return in October to our cruising adventure.  For more on our visit to Maryland and Washington D.C. as well as musings on our travels stay tuned for future posts.

Bellevue ferrry


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“Get back!” Part 2

Part two of our trip down memories’ lanes, found us in Pennsylvania, New York, and New Jersey.  Stops along the way included Bethlehem and the Little Red Barn in Pennsylvania, Rye, Pelham and the Big Apple (including Brooklyn) in New York, and Princeton New Jersey.  Visits included Eric’s brothers Dave and Jeff and Jack and his family, our daughters Beth and Jean, and Eric’s high school friend Larry Wright and his wife Robin Kani.  Memories included magic in the woods, past sailing grounds, and a lakeside memory bench for Eric’s parents.


While visiting Larry and Robin, we  stopped by the old Bethlehem Steel mill, now repurposed as a public park.

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After visiting Larry and Robin in Bethlehem, we stayed several nights at this Pennsylvania campground.


Our reliable tent.

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We shared the campgrounds with motor homes of all sizes.

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Canoeing on Lake Nockamixon.

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We enjoyed Jiffy Pop, the magic treat, for dinner one night.

8.3Rye American YC (2)

The Rye American Yacht Club, where Eulalie raced during her high school years.  Without a current membership, we were politely kept from entering the grounds, hence this more distant picture.  Coincidentally, Eric’s brother Jack and his family now live a short drive away.

8.2NewRochelle1 Huguenot YC

The Huguenot Yacht Club, another of Eulalie’s haunts, was a little more welcoming, nothwithstanding the sign’s message.

9.NY7 Brooklyn Botanical Gardens

The Brooklyn Botanical Gardens provided a peaceful place to wander in the midst of the city’s hectic pace.

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The Garden’s rose collection is extensive.  This rose reminded us of Eulalie’s grandmother on her father’s side, one of seven Delaney sisters.

9.NY20 on ferry to Gov. Island

Manhattan view from ferry to Governor’s Island.

4.Princeton (2)

While in Princeton, we visited the battlefield where George Washington took on the British following Washington’s success in Trenton after crossing the Delaware.

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This spy map helped George formulate his strategy.

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Eric and his brother Dave attached this plaque to a bench installed in their parents’ memory looking out on Lake Carnegie where the lived for many years.

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View from the Muz and Pog’s bench.  Muz, who took up sculling in her fifties, would have enjoyed watching this eight person shell power by.

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“Hello darkness” (attribution: Paul Simon)

Our last post noted the memorial to those lost in the Boston Marathon bombing.  While in New York, we visited the World Trade Memorial Center Memorial, another response to human darkness.  We were moved by the various tributes to those who died from the attack and struck by the summer day’s brightness that now fills ground zero.  Paul Simon’s words, which he sang at the Memorial’s dedication,  have new meaning about our collective dialogue with our darker side.  [click link below to see Simon’s vocal tribute].

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Bright sun reflects off the memorial set in the first tower’s footprint.  A waterfall cascades down the wall and into a shallow pool before disappearing.

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The tribute wall contains poignant posters of those missing after the towers fell.

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The poster wall overwhelms the space and us.

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Memorial staff place a rose by each victim’s name on her or his birthday.

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“Get back to where [we] once belonged” Part 1 (attribution: Lennon/McCartney)

A key objective of our Family and Friends Road trip, was to get back to where we once belonged (AKA the East Coast). This post covers our New York and New England visits.  Stay tuned for posts about other east coast stops.

After departing Wisconsin, we made a bee line to Rochester, NY where Eulalie lived from age 7-12 and where she learned to sail.  We next detoured far into the Adirondacks to visit Malinda Bergamini-Chapman, who Eric met in 1976 at the National Outdoor Leadership School Semester in Outdoor Education.  In Massachusetts, we settled on Boston’s Marlborough Street with Eulalie’s sister Julie.  While in the area, we caught up with assorted first cousins, college faculty, and friends.  This post covers our upstate New York and New England visits.


18Rochester6. Lal at yacht club

Rochester Yacht Club, where Eulalie learned to sail.  Eulalie had not been back to Rochester since her family moved away when she was twelve.  While in Rochester Eulalie visited her childhood home and second cousins Joe and Tom Feaney who lived nearby.

18Rochester11. Ontario Beach

This graceful iron sculpture marks the Genesee River’s outflow into Lake Ontario.


Our visit to Glenn and Malinda Chapman in the Adirondacks coincided with a Chapman family reunion.  Home made chocolate donuts, a Chapman family tradition, powered our drive through Vermont to our Boston destination.

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We enjoyed a lobster picnic along the banks of the Charles River, home to the MIT and Harvard sailing team, which Eulalie challenged in her brief Smith college racing career.

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The Boston Public Gardens is a short walk from sister Julie’s.  We were pleased to find the ducks continuing to make their way about, as they had during our daughters childhood visits to the garden and in the beloved children’s book.

22.Codzilla1 boat

Codzilla, a more recent addition to Boston’s menagerie, was our vessel of choice for touring Boston Harbor.   This 2800 hp speed boat goes up to 40 mph reportedly to avoid a  radioactive cod rumored to live in the harbor.  Eulalie’s sister Julie organized this adventure which we shared with first cousins Patty and Marcia, Deb, and our nephew Hugh and his friends Michael and Max.  Other first cousin visits in Boston included Tony Susen and his family and Sara Laschever and her family.


 A wet time was had by all.


Our arrival in Boston coincided with that of the whaling vessel Charles W. Morgan, part of Mystic Seaport’s collection of historic sailing craft, which remarkably has been under sail again this summer.  Eric explored the Morgan in the fall of 1977 while attending the Williams College Mystic Seaport Semester in Maritime Studies.  Eric credits his Mystic Seaport experience with cementing his professional interest in ocean resource management, which led him to Seattle where he met Eulalie.  While in the Boston area, Eric reconnected with his Mystic experience with visits to the program’s founding Director and his wife, Ben and Linda Labaree and class mate Lani Peterson and her husband Breck.  Photo attribution: Mystic Seaport.

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This somber tribute, also a short walk from Julie’s home, marks the site of the Boston Marathon bomb blast.

24.CT1 Niantic River Rd

Connecticut is Laschever country.  Eric’s grand parents lived in West Hartford, which Eric visited as a boy.  Eric’s cousin Jonathan builds custom homes in the area.  We visited him at this site.  We concluded our New England visit with a night in West Hartford, with Eric’s high school friend Richard Broad and his wife Patti.

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