“[T]he stars snap, like distant coyotes” (attribution: DH Lawrence)

After departing Texas we headed for for New Mexico, where British author D. H. Lawrence spent much of his last years.  We explored Taos and Santa Fe where we absorbed much of the region’s prehistory and history and enjoyed its rich art heritage.   We learned of the centuries-long struggle over this land by the Pueblo Indians, Spanish, French, Mexicans, and the United States.  We spent two nights camping in Bandalier National Monument exploring ruins of the Ancient Pueblo people and being serenaded by coyotes under brilliant night skies.

Caprock to Taos

Our route from Caprock Canyons in Texas to Taos, New Mexico.  We subsequently traveled south to Santa Fe.

new spain

Our visit to New Mexico reminded us of our travels earlier this year in modern day Mexico and impressed on us the areal extent of Mexico and Spain’s reach into what is now the United States.

11TaosPueblo7. village

In Taos, Eulalie toured the pueblo and learned of the Pueblo’s repeated efforts to resist subjugation.

12Taos1. galley painting

We enjoyed several of the Taos galleries.


Santa Fe’s downtown area captured its old West spirit . . .


and captivated us with its colorful art and history museum.

map to bandalier

An hour’s drive west brought us to Bandelier Monument.  Valles Caldera, noted on the map, is the site of the Jemez Volcano Caldera, created 1.1-1.5 million years ago.  The eruption generated 70 cubic miles volcanic debris (compared with Mount Saint Helen’s .3-.5 cubic miles).

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The volcano’s deposits were soft and deep enough for the Ancient Pueblos to carve and fashion into dwellings.

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Multi-family housing, Ancient Pueblo style.

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Eulalie on her way up to the penthouse suite.


The view from the top; a kiva use for weaving and storage.


Tsankawe is out side the main Monument boundary and easy to miss.


Petroglyphys decorate the path to and from the plateau where the Ancient Pueblo lived.


Pottery shards remain on the plateau.

Categories: Uncategorized | 4 Comments

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4 thoughts on ““[T]he stars snap, like distant coyotes” (attribution: DH Lawrence)

  1. Irv

    Did you get to the Jerez caldera? One of the most beautiful places I’ve seen.

  2. We were able to visit the Jemez Caldera on our way west to Colorado and agree that it stunning.

  3. I’m so glad you made it to Tsankawi! (And that you found it!) Hope it didn’t disappoint. It remains one of my favorite places on the planet!

    • We greatly enjoyed Tsankawi. It makes a great morning hike before the sun gets too high. The White Rock visitor center does not do a great job with directions to the place, but we found it right on Route 4 as we headed to Los Alamos.

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